Using a Taper Jig
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A simple device that when used correctly is both safe and very effective.
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The straight scoop on cutting angles
Text and Photos by Tom Hintz
Cutting tapers is a relatively common procedure in woodworking that can be a little intimidating. The idea of intentionally running a piece of wood through a table saw at an angle seems unnatural. In many circumstances, that is a good assumption. However, the proper use of a taper jig makes this task both accurate and relatively safe.
There are many jigs designed for tapering, all of which work the same way: they hold the stock at a specific angle to the blade during the cut. Despite how it looks, using a tapering jig is reasonably safe if the fence and blade are properly aligned and the blade is sharp, as it should be anyway.
While it is common to gang two or more pieces together to be cut at one time, usually when cutting with hand-held saws, this is not a safe practice with taper jigs. Once set up, the jig makes cutting several identical pieces fast and accurate.
Lay Out The Cut
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(Top) Extending the cut line down to the table makes it very easy to get the jig set up correctly.
(Bottom) Using this procedure to set up the jig, the cut went right down the layout line the first time.
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Laying out the cut line accurately on the face of the wood is important to setting the jig up correctly. When satisfied that the line is drawn correctly, use a combination square to extend both ends down the thickness of the material so they meet the table surface. These line extensions are the landmarks that allow setting a taper jig accurately and quickly.
If several parts are to be cut the same way, the layout only needs to be done on the first one. If the blanks are sized identically, the resulting cuts will come out the same also.
Aligning The Jig
The goal of setting up a taper jig is to get the cut line parallel to the fence. Then, the fence and jig are positioned to align the cut line with the blade.
With the saw OFF, place the taper jig against the fence with the piece to be cut against the jig, its bottom edge against the stop. Move the fence so that the cut line marks are over the right miter slot. Adjust the angle of the jig and the fence position until both ends of the cut line are exactly aligned with one edge of the miter slot. If your fence is aligned to the slots and blade, the cut line will now be parallel to the cutting path of the blade. Check the setup by measuring from each end of the cut line to the fence. The measurements should be identical. When satisfied the cut line is parallel to the fence, tighten the screws that lock the taper jig and re-check its alignment.
Move the fence so the mark indicating the beginning of the taper just touches the front edge of the blade. Lock the fence in place and re-check the alignment. Pull the jig and work piece towards you until it is well clear of the blade before starting the saw.
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(Top) Standing on the opposite side of the fence from the taper jig prevents having to reach near, over or behind the blade.
(Bottom) When completing the cut, push the jig and stock all the way through and beyond the blade. Stopping or backing up is asking for trouble.
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I have found that setting the blade about 1/16" away from the cut line and making an initial cut lets you sneak up on the perfect setting and reveals any misalignments before ruining a workpiece. Make necessary corrections and make the finish cut. Once this is set, subsequent pieces can then be cut and they will all be the same.
Making the Cut
Note: Left-handed woodworkers may have to alter this procedure to best suit how they use a table saw. Make sure whatever procedure is being used is safe!
I make these, and nearly all rip-type cuts, with the fence on the right side of the blade. To give me the most control and the largest margin of safety I stand to the right of the fence. With my hands on top of the fence, I can grasp the taper jig and stock, holding them tightly against the fence, without having to reach over or exert force towards the blade.
If the work piece is too small to grasp easily, a method of clamping the jig and work piece together must be devised so you can keep your fingers a safe distance from the blade.
When making the cut, push the jig and work piece through the saw at a normal feed rate, continuing to move the jig and work piece until they are well clear of the blade. There is never a good time to pull the jig and work piece back through a running saw!
The cut off piece will fall to the free side of the blade, but it still could be thrown back. Shut the saw down and let the blade stop before trying to retrieve the cut off piece or bring the jig back to the starting position.
The taper jig may feel a little awkward in the beginning, but with a little practice, you will be making accurate and safe angle cuts that benefit your projects.
See the NewWoodworker.com Taper Jig Custom Plan Set
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